patkaspian

So your understanding of why dark pigment areas appear after years of clear skin is- shall we say- spotty? Read about what causes them, what active ingredients actually diminish them, and what products contain them, below. OR- consult with your esthetician to determine the best plan of attack without heading for laser or other invasive, expensive, and temporary medical options.

The term “dark spots” is a generic description for multiple forms of hyperpigmentation including sun damage, age spots, melasma, discoloration, uneven tone and more. Hyperpigmentation is caused by a variety of factors, but is typically a result of cumulative sun exposure, environmental stressors and hormones –making it a challenge that nearly everyone faces as they age. The appearance of dark spots is also associated with aging, in fact,studies have shown that the degree of hyperpigmentation is directly linked to a person’s perceived age, even in the absence of wrinkles.

Despite being one of, if not the most common signs of aging, hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult conditions to address and can take months to show improvement. Improvement requires addressing current concerns with proper home care and  may also require treatments including peels . Preventing future dark spots into the future requires a combination of sun protection and use of a proper home care regimen with proven topical products.

Hyperpigmentation is defined as any abnormal increase in genetically programmed skin pigmentation. Many factors can contribute to changes in skin color or uneven pigmented patches. These include: UV light (did you know that even fluorescent office lights can be a source of UV exposure?), chemicals, genetics, age, local infection, hormones, drugs, and acne. We can now add to the list the harmful effects of Blue Light (watch that screen time!)

Common hyperpigmentation concerns are usually focused on solar lentigo (areas of discoloration from sun exposure).  Areas most affected are the face, the decolleté ( literally translated as the “uncollared area”) and the back of the hands. How many of us remember to reapply sunscreen every 80 minutes? Do you apply it daily to the back of your hands which receive constant exposure while you drive?

Melasma, another form of abnormal coloration, is characterized by blotchy brown hyperpigmented patches that have an irregular shape and may be distributed over the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and neck. Frequently, this condition occurs during pregnancy, at menopause,  and in those taking hormones or oral contraceptives. It can also rarely occur in men. Sun exposure and certain topical or oral medications can worsen the appearance of the discolored areas dramatically. Melasma can affect either the epidermal (superficial) layers of the skin, the dermal (deep) layers of the skin, or both. The distinction, visible through a Woods Lamp, is important because epidermal pigmentation may respond well to being lessened or resolved with topical agents while dermal pigmentation may need to be addressed more aggressively.

It is a fact that pigment plays a role in protecting the skin from damage caused by ultra-violet light (sun exposure). Recent studies indicate that this protective action is due to melanin’s ability to act as a potent free radical scavenger. Apparently, free radicals that are triggered through sun exposure are neutralized by melanin which in turn aids in preventing cellular DNA damage. However, continuous UV exposure (without protection) creates a cycle of pigment production at the dermal (deeper skin) level, causing inflammation, melanocyte activation, melanin synthesis, and melanin transfer.  The result, in plain terms, is uneven, blotchy skin tone, detracting from the overall clarity and youthful even tone of your skin.

Non-Prescription (non-Hydroquinine) Product Solutions

Glycolic Acid : SOTHYS GLYSALAC Dermobooster and JAN MARINI BIOCLEAR LOTION OR CREAM

Starting at the most basic level, medical studies indicate that glycolic acid assists in resolving hyperpigmentation by breaking down the cellular bonds of the dead layers (stratum corneum), causing a lifting of over-pigmented areas.It is also proven to act as a delivery “carrier” for other topical products and medications, thus enhancing the effects of lightening agents. It can be found in Jan Marini’s Bioclear Lotion and Cream (which are both comprised of 12% glycolic, 2% salicylic and 2% azeleic acids) applied as Step 3 of the Skin Care Management System. I recommend SOTHYS’ Glysalac Acid Dermobooster as a gentler, but still very effective option for epidermal exfoliation.

Alpha Arbutin, Hexylresorcinol and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract (Licorice Root)  JAN MARINI LUMINATE FACE LOTION

LUMINATE FACE LOTION i- this dynamic alpha-arbutin face cream combines concentrated all-trans-retinol with advanced NON-hydroquinone technologies to lighten the appearance of discoloration and reduce the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles – helping to restore your skin’s youthful complexion. It is a powerful cocktail of the following safe ingrediients for skin lightening: 

Extracted from plants such as bearberries, blueberries, and cranberries, alpha arbutin is a safe skin brightening ingredient which helps to fade scars and pigmentation left behind by breakouts and sun damage. According to LA Dermatologist Michael LIN: “Arbutin is a molecule extracted from the bearberry plant that prevents the formation of melanin,” Lin explains. He compares arbutin to two other gentle brighteners: kojic acid (derived from mushrooms) and licorice root (derived from the licorice plant). “[They] are derived from different natural ingredients, but they all function as tyrosinase inhibitors to provide skin lightening and brightening effects,” he says. Basically, brown spots come from pigments that are produced in cells called melanocytes, which contain enzymes called tyrosinase. They can activate anytime they come in contact with UV light, which is why you’ll notice freckles and sun spots starting to develop if you spend too much time in the sun.3 That’s when arbutin comes in—it blocks tyrosinase and keeps dark spots at bay.”

Hexylresorcinol has long been recognized as a highly effective, non-toxic lightening agent has been shown to have efficacy comparable to or greater than 4% hydroquinone. It is a powerful tyrosinase inhibitor, exceptional at addressing overly pigmented areas and brightening overall skin tone. So safe, this ingredient has been used in cough drops!

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhiza Glabra) has been used  for medicinal purposes for centuries, and is the source of licorice extract used topically for skin. It’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have been proven to help fade dark spots.  It is most importantly a much safer alternative to hydroquinone, previously thought  to be the gold-standard brightening ingredient, though banned in many countries for its unwanted side effects and even potential safety concerns.

LUMIRA™ by COLORESCIENCE

A few years back COLORESCIENCE developed a patented active ingredient  UV Complex known as LUMIRA™ which brightens by addressing underlying causes of skin pigmentation, and preventing future pigmentation. LUMIRA™ counteracts the cycle of pigment production at every level, addressing inflammation, melanocyte activation, melanin synthesis, and melanin transfer. What does this mean for those of us who aren’t chemists? LUMIRA™ addresses current pigmentation, as well as pigmentation in progress. 

Getting at the root cause of pigmentation with the newest addition to the Colorescience treatment line-up is EVEN UP MULTI-CORRECTION SERUM, just launched in March 2021 to diminish the appearance of dark spots, age spots and other discoloration. An added benefit is a more balanced, luminous and uniform skin surface combined with enhanced hydration levels. Applied as a lightweight serum before your moisturizer, just a few weeks will reveal a more radiant, even-textured complexion.

This new serum can be paired for maximum texture and radiance results with Colorescience’s  classic 3 -in-1 SPF50 EVEN UP CLINICAL PIGMENT PERFECTOR in a beautiful universal tint that doubles as a primer while it works on brightening the complexion with – you guessed it- LUMIRA™ complex!

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Serious skincare treatments, paired with a serious home care regimen will achieve the results I seek in partnership with my clients. Let’s design your new skin program together,  with award-winning, rejuvenating skin care products and professional as well as at-home peels that offer a multi-faceted approach to reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, resulting in a lighter, brighter, more youthful looking complexion with improvement visible in as little as a month!

Skincare is what I have dedicated my life to. Addressing skin concerns, helping you maintain your loveliest skin for the longest time without resorting to surgery or invasive procedures. It’s the French way.  But this past year has required a more targeted focus, in addition to skin. The windows of the soul- the eyes  and  the eye contour have taken center-stage.

Granted, I have always recommended eye serums and treatments as part of the total regimen to keep us looking youthful. But the new emphasis on screen time damage from blue light (Netflix binging qualifies..), mask-wearing  and the  general effect most of us have felt from the upheaval  in our daily routines (poor sleep patterns, pollution, lack of exercise, dietary missteps) has impacted the eye contour even more. 

Thankfully, SOTHYS Paris has developed  PRESCRIPTION JEUNESSE – a salon treatment paired with 2 simple homecare products to REPAIR the signs of aging (wrinkles, dark circles and puffiness) as well as PREVENT future damage.  Active ingredients developed from natural origins. French digi-esthetique movements .  A synthesis of the best from science and nature to protect the eyes against external aggression to leave them visibly younger, brighter, more radiant and relaxed.

Some facts I’d like to share with you:

The eye area is fragile and five times thinner than the rest of the face, and less resilient to aging because of its constant use. Blinking happens more than 10,000 times every day!

Blue Light

It’s a wavelength also known as HEV (High Visible Energy), longer than UV rays and can therefore alter the structure of skin cells whose collagen and elastin production DECREASES (ouch), therefore triggering premature skin aging.

What Causes Aging Around The Eyes?

• DEHYDRATION, DRYNESS, FINE LINES AND WRINKLES-In thin skin it is easier for water to evaporate and there are a great many frequent muscle movements
• PUFFINESS – This is caused mostly by poor lymph circulation
• DARK CIRCLES (blue, brown, red, purple)-Poor blood circulation
• LACK OF RADIANCE- Structure and  organization of skin interfaces

With these facts in mind (help Mr. Wizard!), Sothys has blended the best of nature with scientific advanced research to develop two go-to products for immediate results.

Radiance Cream for Wrinkles/Dark Circles and Puffiness

Recommended morning and night around the entire eye contour

FLAX SEED EXTRACT to protect the skin barrier against external aggressions and to protect the dermal structures (loss of structure= saggy, baggy skin!) Did you know that Sothys employs a green chemistry process that eliminates the need to introduce chemicals?

ULTRA-REGENERATING COMPLEX composed of  TRI-PEPTIDES to stimulate collagen, VITAMIN B5 to soothe and HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT HYALURONIC ACID  for immediate plumping and hydration.This is the magic bullet that attacks the wrinkles.

MEADOW PLANT to enhance radiance around the eyes with light-diffusing action.

TARA-SUNFLOWER for anti-blue light protective action

VITAMIN PP/HORSE CHESTNUT EXTRACT/RED ALGAE & BIGARADE to reduce dark circles and puffiness.

Anti-Puffiness Cryo Roll-on

Recommended morning and night applied to the lower lid using the three balls and pressing down lightly on the tube. Smooth the gel into the skin from the inner corner of the eye working towards the temple. Store the tube in the fridge for a few hours for an even more refreshing, and relaxing feel.

FLAX SEED EXTRACT and ULTRA-REGENERATING PEPTIDE COMPLEX (above)

CAFFEINE & oligosaccharides from marine plants provide anti-puffiness activity

RED ALGAE EXTRACT decongests to further reduce puffiness.

Seeing is believing, and what better way to boost your new homecare than with a CRYO EYE PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT in the salon. Let me take you to la-la land with this 30-minute treatment  specifically designed for the delicate eye contour, immediately erasing signs of fatigue and aging, with the refreshing and decongesting effect of Sothys’ exclusive modeling porcelain spoons.

I hope to “see” you soon- wink wink!

Patricia

Experience dramatic transformation with The Skin Care Management System™ and see firsthand why it has been voted “The Best Skin Care System” for its 10th consecutive year as part of NewBeauty Magazine’s Annual Beauty Choice Awards. Clients are surprised to note immediate improvement in their skin after just a few weeks using the System. And to “accelerate” the concern you are specifically trying to address, let me recommend the following accelerators that fit into the regimen immediately after Step 3  (Bioclear):   Concern: DARK SPOTS         Solution: LUMINATE LOTION and MASK The term “dark spots” is a generic description for multiple forms of hyperpigmentation including sun damage, age spots, melasma, discoloration, uneven tone and more. Hyperpigmentation is a caused by a variety of factors, but is typically a result of cumulative sun exposure, environmental stressors and hormones –making it a challenge that nearly everyone faces as they age. The appearance of dark spots is also associated with aging, in fact,studies have shown that the degree of hyperpigmentation is directly linked to a person’s perceived age, even in the absence of wrinkles. Despite being one of, if not the most common signs of aging, hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult conditions to address and can take months to show improvement. Improvement requires addressing current concerns with proper home care and may also require treatments including peels and laser procedures. Preventing future dark spots into the future requires a combination of sun protection and use of a proper homecare regimen with products for dark spots. Jan Marini Skin Research’s award-winning, rejuvenating skin care products and professional as well as at-home peels offer a multi-faceted approach to reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation, resulting in a lighter, brighter, more youthful looking complexion with improvement visible in as little as a month! Reveal brighter skin with MARINI LUMINATE FACE LOTION. This dynamic alpha-arbutin face cream combines concentrated all-trans-retinol with advanced non-hydroquinone technologies to lighten the appearance of discoloration and reduce the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles – helping to restore your skin’s youthful complexion.   Concern: WRINKLES   Solution: AGE INTERVENTION RETINOL PLUS/ REGENERATION BOOSTER  Fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin texture are commonly assumed to be an inevitable result of aging. This belief however, is not accurate. The majority of these changes are caused by a loss of collagen and elastin in the skin due to cumulative sun exposure and environmental damage. Coupled with a decrease in cellular turnover with age, the result is lax, wrinkled skin with rough, uneven texture and a loss of vibrancy and glow. The good news is that proper skin care and treatments can dramatically reverse these changes and minimize or prevent additional future damage. Jan Marini Skin Research’s award-winning skin texture products and professional services utilize advanced technologies including peptides, growth factors, antioxidants, cycloastragenol, multiple targeted acids and all-trans-retinol (the most bioavailable form of retinol) for dramatic improvement in the appearance of texture, fine lines and wrinkles. Two-time NewBeauty Award Winning Best Retinol Cream: AGE INTERVENTION RETINOL PLUS redefines expectations for retinoids. Highly concentrated all-trans-retinol is combined with advanced peptides and antioxidants for maximum results and satisfaction while integrated soothing and hydrating ingredients offer superior experience with minimal acclimation. This retinol night cream is suitable for all skin types. Pair this retinol and peptides cream with Marini Juveneck to help reduce the appearance of creases and deep wrinkles along the neck area. REGENERATION BOOSTER is a patented peptide face lotion shown to significantly improve the appearance of aging skin. Maximum results are delivered through a combination of advanced ingredients including cycloastragenol, multiple beneficial growth factors and peptides, coenzyme Q10, antioxidants and advanced hydrators. This peptide face lotion is suitable for all skin types. (Applied on clean skin, prior ro C-Esta Serum).   Concern: VOLUME AND LAXITY   Solution: HYLA 3D Loss of volume and sagging skin is a direct result of sun damage and declining levels of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) production in your skin. Hyaluronic Acid functions is a major contributor to the extracellular matrix (essentially the framework to our cell structure) which is the foundation for creation of collagen and elastin. Age and sun damage reduce the skin’s ability to retain and produce this much needed resource,leading to loss of volume, sagging and loss of contour in the skin. Hyaluronic Acid provides long-lasting hydration along with advanced technologies to enhance HA within the skin. Paired with peptides and antioxidants to boost collagen and elastin Jan Marini Skin Research HA serum products can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a more youthful, contoured look. Age and sun damage diminish the body’s ability to produce and maintain youthful levels of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) in the skin; leading to loss of volume and visible signs of aging. HYLA 3D HYALURONIC ACID LOTION takes a 3-dimensional approach to restoring hydration while reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a more youthful, contoured look. Give your skin regimen an extra boost with our Hyla3D Face & Lip set!   Concern: ACNE and ADULT ACNE Solution: BENZOYL PEROXIDE 5% or 10% (teens) and DUALITY (Adult Acne) Acne is a significant and growing skin concern that can persist well beyond the teen years, especially for females. In fact, acne currently affects approximately 50% of all women between 20-29 years of age and 25% of all women between 40-49 years of age. There is no single cause for acne, however, a number of factors may be present during the course of the disease such as heredity, hormones, increased oil production and bacteria. Not only can acne cause physical discomfort, the emotional and social stress of this condition can significantly impact quality of life. Jan Marini Skin Research’s award-winning acne-prone skin care products and professional peel treatments utilize multiple proven acne-fighting technologies to address the various factors that contribute to acne in both teens and adults without the dryness and irritation commonly associated with many acne treatments, for clearer skin. DUALITY, a benzoyl peroxide and retinol cream addresses even the most stubborn adult acne while simultaneously minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Its unique dual chamber dispensing solution combines some of the most proven, yet previously incompatible, technologies in one product. The maximum allowed percentage of ultra-micronized benzoyl peroxide, highly concentrated all-trans-retinol, green tea extract, anti-aging peptides, advanced hydrators and antioxidants deliver unparalleled results in an easy to use solution. Be sure to also check out our Age Intervention® Gentle Cleanser, a mild formula designed for sensitive skin.   Concern: REDNESS Solution: ROSALIEVE Facial flushing, blushing and diffuse redness is one of the primary skin concerns of nearly 10% of the adult US population. While it is estimated that over 16 million Americans suffer from Rosacea, the number of people who suffer from some form of facial flushing or redness not classified or diagnosed as Rosacea is likely much higher. Redness can have many forms and is influenced by multiple factors including exposure to sunlight, heat, stress, exercise, hormonal fluctuations and eating certain foods or drinks. Controlling redness and rosacea requires proper home care, attention to diet and stressors as well as series of laser treatments for more severe concerns. Jan Marini Skin Research’s award-winning anti-redness skin care products and services utilize advanced technologies like azelaic acid, peptides concentrated green tea extract, oat extract and red and white tea extracts to soothe the skin, minimize redness and reduce the severity and frequency of flushing. When used with lasers, our anti-redness skin care solutions have been shown to reduce redness by more than the amount of an additional laser treatment! People with diffuse redness and flushing have good and bad days. With Jan Marini’s skin redness products, you’ll have better, less red, average days and more of your best days. ROSALIEVE is an innovative formula with azelaic acid, an anti-redness peptide and multiple antioxidants and extracts shown to reduce the appearance of redness and visible flushing. This azelaic acid lotion also includes white tea and red tea extracts.

Bonjour!

Living through a pandemic is fraught with sadness, uncertainty and concern for our health and well-being. It also affords us more time to reflect upon the more positive aspects of living which we are grateful  for every day.

I must say that foregoing the service aspect of my calling as an esthetician is heart-wrenching. So much of my passion for skincare is derived from sharing that knowledge and interacting with my amazing clients. Determining what treatments can noticeably improve the quality of their skin and customizing their homecare to sustain those in-salon results inspires me as we partner in our common goal of skin health and beauty.

And so with more time to focus on education,  I am offering a monthly “Regimen Review”  for those who are either starting to focus more on their skincare needs during this period when our skin’s luminosity, texture and hydration are being assaulted by the “aggressors” of erratic sleep patterns, poor diet, winter weather and stress.  And I will address skincare “boosts” to jumpstart and stimulate the skin’s natural functions which may be showing  signs of slackening whether age, hormones, or medications are preventing the skin from looking it’s best.

“Great skin doesn’t happen by chance. It happens by appointment.” A consultation  in a socially distant setting by Facetime or in person (our masks, plexiglass shields and air filters in the salon offer a safe option) allow us to discuss your concerns.

Let’s begin the journey with your skin type.  Early in my aesthetic career, I learned the first important rule of skincare from my mother  Yvette,  an esthetician trained in France who owned her salon in Los Gatos California for 30 years. She taught me that every woman’s skin is often generally categorized into subgroups. But the fact of the matter is that your skin’s “type” is actually like your fingerprint- specific, individual, unique to you and your body’s physiology and lifestyle.

This is why I customize my clients’ regimens to their PARTICULAR needs. And yes, we start off with a basic, loosely structured “category”, which I will offer regimens for below. But then the true focus begins, the artistry of finding what makes YOUR skin respond.  I  help design a plan that meets YOUR concerns to produce the most visible results. So let’s begin with your skin type and the basic regimen of 5 steps that French women (and of course ALL women) typically follow if they are expecting to maintain younger, luminous skin.

Sothys Regimens:

• Normal/Combination Skin
• Dry/Dehydrated Skin
• Sensitive Skin
• Oily/Acne-prone Skin

Jan Marini Regimens:

• Add To Your Skin Care Management System

Sensitive skin can be genetic or develop later in life. It requires the utmost care – only applying hypoallergenic products, avoiding harsh ingredients. At the heart of the Belgian Ardennes is a natural spring water with prodigious benefits. Since the 16th century Spa™ Thermal Water has been recognized and used by thousands of spa visitors. Sothys Advanced Research ensures the benefits of this exceptional water can be enjoyed by the most fragile skin: naturally sensitive and temporarily sensitized skin. Fragrance free, the Spa™ Thermal Water line has been specially formulated to provide sensitive skin with formulas that have the utmost respect for its fragile nature. STEP 1: CLEANSE OPTION 1: MORNING CLEANSER A rich but delicate cleansing cream with camomile and sweet almond oil extract that soothes as it gently removes impurities. OPTION 2:  COMFORT CLEANSING MILK and LOTION (Toner) Infused with SPA™ THERMAL WATER from Belgium to reduce sensitivity and cotton extract to soothe, this hypoallergenic milk dissolves debris and makeup as the unscented toner further whisks away makeup and sunscreen for a clean, fresh feel. Choose milks over gels that can strip natural oils. STEP 2: SKIN SPECIFIC SERUM SOS CALMING SERUM This fluid serum is ideal for quickly neutralizing permanent or temporary sensations of discomfort, and keeping the skin calm and soothed. Applied on clean skin prior to cream. STEP 3: MOISTURIZER DAY/NIGHT: SOOTHING VELVET CREAM Daily protection essential for the comfort of sensitive skin. True caress for sensitive skin prone to dryness. Available in a lighter texture- Soothing Melting Fluide for normal/combination sensitive skin.